The entire clutch fan mount must be removed as well as the
cooling system drained and the thermostat housing removed. The radiator
can stay in place but it's easier if you remove it.
One other "gotcha". Crank pulley removal. There are 6 - 10 mm bolts that
hold it in place. You do NOT need to remove the 22 mm center bolt. If the
crank pulley doesn't come off tap it with a block of wood and a hammer. It
should drop off.
If you have high mileage (say greater than 80K miles or so) you should
consider doing the water pump too if you need to replace the belt.
If you are going to replace it get a GENUINE Kia water pump from a dealer.
Don't go aftermarket. Aftermarket water pumps may in fact be for the
SOHC engine and it will fit but destroy the new timing belt.
> 1. Loosen the tensioner on water pump. Swing it away with a pry bar
> and tighten it. Remove old belt...unless it's already gone.
> 2. Align the intake cam with the 'I' on the cam gear with mark on
> top of head.
> 3. Align the exhaust cam with the 'E' on the cam gear with mark on
> top of head.
> 4. Align crank gear with the notch on the block. Piston 1 will now
> be at DTC. (You don't have to turn engine several times to do this
> because of the design of the ignition.)
> 5. Install new belt but leave tensioner free.
> 6. Turn engine in direction of rotation twice to insure everything
> remains lined up.
> 7. Loosen tensioner lock bolt so tensioner goes against the belt
> 8. Turn engine so the 'S' mark on the exhaust cam aligns with the
> mark on the top of the head and then tighten the tensioner lock bolt..
> 9. It's done, except to put everything back together.
But you should replace the following since you are gonna be in there:
The belt tensioner pulley.
The belt tensioner spring.
And if you have in excess of 80K miles or so, the water pump and
gasket: use a genuine Kia factory water pump.
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